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Martino Pessina: Reshaping fashion retail through innovation and collaborative leadership

In the fast-paced and ever-evolving fashion retail industry, Martino Pessina stands out as an exceptional leader whose innovative strategies and empathetic approach have left an indelible mark. With close to two decades at H&M and a successful tenure as CCO at Pandora, Pessina’s journey exemplifies how perseverance, adaptability, and data-driven insights can reshape the D2C landscape.

After graduating, Pessina joined his family’s wholesale firm in Milan where he spent four years developing knowledge of purchasing, cost management and pricing. He used this invaluable experience to secure a role in H&M’s buying team and moved to Stockholm in 2001, where he took on his first leadership role, managing sales budgets for H&M’s Ladies' Underwear Collections.

Over the following 18 years, his career at the global fashion retailer saw him take on roles within merchandising, real estate and sales, moving to France and later Germany, before returning to Sweden as Head of Global Merchandising. He was appointed President Sweden in 2013, and after two years as Head of Global Sales, Pessina moved to New York in 2018 as President North America.

Reflecting on his time at H&M, Pessina stated that it was the opportunity to “learn from diverse experiences” that led him to stay with the same business for so long. However, after rejuvenating H&M’s North American operations – his tenth role at the business in 18 years – it was the same desire for new challenges that saw him accept the position of Chief Commercial Officer at Pandora. 

This was undoubtedly a big change for Pessina in another new country – this time Denmark – and with direct responsibility for nine regions, four global business functions and 17000 employees. Yet, it was his ability to embrace change while staying true to his values that played a crucial role in driving Pandora’s transformation from a wholesaler to a thriving D2C brand in under four years.  

Pessina emphasised the significance of humility during such transitions, stating how changing jobs after a long tenure requires “careful navigation and understanding of the new company’s culture.” He also underlined the importance of collaborative leadership, adding how “open communication and actions which inspire all colleagues to be part of the change” will help drive a successful turnaround.

Indeed, throughout his career, Pessina has orchestrated successful turnarounds, establishing a genuine connection with customers through building strong and motivated teams, a factor he says is “critical in creating a welcoming and relatable brand.” According to Pessina his leadership style always centers on empowering teams and fostering an environment where innovation flourishes.

A champion of data-driven decision-making, in addition to the above, Pessina attributes much of his success to an unwavering focus on results. He firmly believes that “data enables personalisation and helps predict trends,” leading to more effective and tailored customer experiences. Through the use of advanced systems and data analytics, he says, brands can facilitate better product innovation.

While data plays a vital role in modern fashion retail, Pessina also embraces the growing influence of AI in creative processes, particularly in product design. “The integration of AI in the creative realm is an exciting development that will disrupt the industry,” he claims. Interestingly, Pessina sees a future where technology and creativity blend seamlessly in the workplace, all for the customers’ benefit.

With his extensive experience in global fashion retail, Pessina knows the key to attracting top talent. Having recruited across various countries, he emphasised the value of adapting hiring strategies to meet diverse market needs. According to Pessina, “Understanding local cultures and creating flexible work environments are essential in attracting the best candidates, regardless of discipline area.”  

Beyond the world of retail, Pessina maintains a balanced life through his passion for sports, particularly cycling. In Pessina’s view, cycling is not only an activity that helps keeps him physically active, but also one that provides “moments of introspection,” highlighting his belief in the importance of self-care and reflection as foundations of a successful executive career.

Through inspiring teams and embracing change, as well as his commitment to data-driven insights and fostering innovation, Pessina has woven a legacy of growth and transformation in fashion retail. As he embarks on new endeavours, he says he wishes to avoid limiting himself to a specific product or industry, and instead remain focused on identifying another exciting and durable challenge:

“I’m not someone who likes too much change every year, but rather am motivated by the opportunity to develop strategies that lead to success over a period of time. So, I’m keeping an open mind about what my next role will be. I might end up in a similar product category again, but at least if I do, the context will always be different to what it was at the beginning of my career journey.”